Allison Day

2012 Japan Trip

On the morning of our sixth day in Japan, we planned to go to Tsukiji fish market with Rachael.

Key word: “planned”.

We dragged ourselves out of bed around 3am. Neither Son nor I are morning people (we’re more likely to be going to bed around 3am), so there was definite dragging involved, however before long we were up and ready to go see some fish!

And then we got stuck in our hotel.


As I’ve mentioned before, one of the lower levels of our hotel connects to a train station, so that’s how we would usually get across to Rachael’s hotel, since hers is just on the other side of the station.

But what we hadn’t realized, is that they close the train stations overnight. Completely shut. No way in, no way out. (Probably to keep out homeless people and mischief-makers when the trains aren’t running during the wee hours of the morning.

In fact, even the doors to our hotel were locked – we had to go through the 24-hour Family Mart connected to the hotel to get out… and then to get back in, once we realized that there was absolutely no way to get into the train station.

(The people in Family Mart must have thought we were fools, trying to get out at that hour!)

So we finally made our way back up to the first floor of our hotel (which was an adventure in itself, since all the escalators had been turned off as well).

Once there, we wandered about, trying to figure out how the heck to get to Rachael’s hotel – up until then, we had always gotten there through the train station.

Jaywalking at 4am

Finally, we got to the Conrad. By that time, we were fretting, because we were certain we were too late to get to Tsukiji on time anyways – apparently you had to be there by 4:30am to have any chance of getting in, as they only allow very few people in every morning.

And… Rachael was nowhere to be found.

I tried messaging her. No response.

Okay, so now we’re panicking. What if she went off looking for us? What if she’s waiting in front of our hotel, while we’re over at hers? When we all went out, she usually used our Pocket Wifi, so we started worrying that she couldn’t get any of our messages, either.

So off Son went, running around the area, trying to locate our missing Rachael.

He ran back to our hotel. No Rachael. He jogged down to the train station, which was just opening up. No Rachael.

By that time, half an hour had passed since we were supposed to meet her, and we were at the end of our wits.

Then I got a message. “I just got up and realized my alarm didn’t go off!!! I am so sorry!”

Yep, Rachael was still in bed, NOT wandering the streets of Tokyo looking for us! We were so relieved. By that time there was no chance of getting to Tsukiji on time, so Son and I headed back to our hotel and got a few more hours of much needed sleep.

Morning sky

Five hours later, we were up and getting ready for the day once again.

And by getting ready for the day, I mean watching an NBA game Son found on TV.

NBA on TV in Japan!

But soon enough we were ready, and met Rachael and her girls (this time we were all able to find each other without any problems) so we could all head over to Hamarikyu park. (300 yen per person to get in.)

Flowers in Hamarikyu park

Son got a bit of videotaping done while we wandered around in the park…

(If you’re lucky, he’ll have time to process the videos soon so you can all see them!)

Son taking video

But our real purpose of the trip was to take the waterbus from Hamarikyu Park, up the Sumida River to Asasuka. (730 yen per person.)

Inside the waterbus

We decided to sit on the lower level, where it was much less crowded.

View from the waterbus

View from the waterbus

Egg onigiri packaging

While on the waterbus, Son and I shared an onigiri with a soft-boiled egg inside that we had purchased earlier that day.

Onigiri with egg

View from waterbus

View from waterbus

Once off the waterbus, we headed over to Nakamise-dori, the “shopping street” leading up to the Senso-ji temple.

The enterance to temple street

This street is lined with about 89 shops, selling all sorts of different things.

Temple street

Hashi store

Temple street

A side street

Temple street

We stopped at a shop selling freshly made senbei and taiyaki-type pastries (they weren’t fish-shaped, but aside from the shape they seemed to be essentially the same as taiyaki… so that’s what I’ll be calling them).

Senbei/taiyaki shop

Buying taiyaki

Rachael bought some senbei, and I bought some of the taiyaki.


Oh, hi!

Allison with the taiyaki bag

A little closer to the temple, there was a shop selling fried mochi.

Sweet potato yaki mochi

Both Rachael and I got mochi filled with a sweet potato paste. Delicious!

Sweet potato yaki mochi

Once at the temple, we rested in the shade for a few moments – it was a really hot day, especially with so many people crowding the streets there.

Sensoji temple

Allison drinking water

Rope art at the temple

Sensoji temple

Fortune telling at the Sensoji temple

We spent a little time walking through the temple, but like I said before, it was quite crowded there that day, so we didn’t stay long.

Sensoji temple

Tokyo Skytree as seen from Sensoji temple

Allison with one of the taiyaki in front of Sensoji temple

Schoolgirls getting their fortunes told

Side of Sensoji temple

Sensoji temple

Of course we had to stop for ice cream on the way out. (Seriously, it was so hot that day, I think I nearly got heat stroke – I was swaying and dizzy while waiting to order, and I think the ice cream helped a lot.)

Bug with her ice cream

Then we stopped at a park – or rather, the girls stopped at the park, begging to get to play. So we sat there for an hour (I did my part pushing them on the swings!) while the girls ran around, and we got to rest in the shade for a bit.

A man pulling people in a cart

A woman pulling tourists in a cart

Walking back to the train station

View of the Skytree from a side street


At Sensoji temple

Eventually we got back to our hotels, with just enough time to run up and freshen up really quickly before we had to be at their hotel for our next adventure… dinner at one of Rachael’s favorite places.

View from the taxi

We all took taxis, both for ease of getting to our destination, and so we wouldn’t be late for our reservation.

GPS in the taxi

We were headed to a little place in Shibuya, called Kaikaya by the Sea.

Kaikaya by the Sea

Windows outside of Kaikaya by the Sea

Allison inside Kaikaya by the Sea

Rachael raves about this ginger ale served in a cold copper cup, and I can see why. It was delicious.

Ginger ale with a copper cup

People who work at Kaikaya by the Sea

We started with a Chinese chicken salad. Everything was family-style, and it was a set meal.

Chinese chicken salad


Then some delicious, wonderfully fresh sashimi.


There was a battered, fried shrimp dish with a mayonnaise sauce that reminded me of the walnut shrimp that’s common in a lot of Chinese restaurants in the US…

Shrimp with a mayonnaise sauce

Kampachi carpaccio

… and a fantastic kampachi carpaccio that was one of my favorite dishes of the evening.

Kampachi carpaccio

Rachael always raves about the tuna “spareribs” (actually tuna cheek, but prepared like spareribs), which was pretty good.

Tuna ribs

But what we’re still dreaming about are these corn and shrimp fritters…

Corn and shrimp fritters

… and this fried buttery goatfish.

Fried buttery goatfish

Seriously, holy cow. I’ve had some great fish before, but that goatfish was incredible.

Fish mouth!

Fried buttery goatfish

The meal wound down with some sort of lighter-than-usual fried rice.

Fried rice

As well as miso soup made with fish (though I can’t recall trying any).

Fish miso soup

For dessert, green tea cheesecake. (Rachael and her husband had sakura ice cream, since they don’t drink green tea. I got to try a bite of Rachael’s and it was really good!)

Green tea cheesecake

Standing outside Kaikaya by the Sea after dinner

Leaving Kaikaya by the Sea

Walking to the main street from Kaikaya by the Sea

After dinner, Rachael, her family, and her husband’s coworkers (who had joined us for dinner) all had to head back to their hotels, but Son (of course) was still hungry.

The main street in Shibuya

So we went back and walked around Shibuya a bit.

Fancy car-cycles in Shibuya

Allison in the gyoza shop

On the way toward the train station from Kaikaya by the Sea, Rachael had pointed out her favorite gyoza chain, so of course we had to go back and buy a box.

Gyoza box

Then we headed back to our hotel to try them. I was still too full to eat more than one, but had to agree that they were delicious.

And, more importantly, they filled Son up. Success! (And time to pass out.)


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On our fifth day in Japan, we spent the morning without Rachael and her family, as they had another commitment.

So what did we do with our time by ourselves? Well, our first order of business was Beard Papa’s. Which, by now, probably doesn’t surprise you one bit.

Coffee cream puff

On this visit, we got two types of cream puffs.

Coffee cream puff inside

This coffee cream puff had a crunchy exterior, with a coffee custard mixed with coffee jelly cubes inside.

Coffee cream puff with a better view of the coffee jelly

Our second cream puff was one that Rachael insisted we try – the shiro cream puff.

Shiro cream puff in the packaging

The shiro cream puff (“shiro” means “white” in Japanese) was made with tapioca flour instead of regular flour, which gave it a chewier texture – almost mochi-like.

Shiro cream puff

And on the inside, rather than having a custard filling, it had a cream cheese-based filling.

Holy cow. This instantly became our very favorite (aka we’re totally obsessed and incredibly sad we can’t get them in the US) type of Beard Papa’s cream puff.

Shiro cream puff with cream cheese filling

After gorging ourselves on cream puffs (just kidding, we shared both of them), we wandered around a bit, exploring the area.

Allison wandering

We found the Old Shimbashi Station – what used to be Shimbashi station, before it was replaced with the gigantic station that is in use now.

Old Shimbashi Station

It was pretty interesting to get to see the history, even if we couldn’t always understand everything.

A plaque talking about Old Shimbashi Station

Then we went in search of Don Quixote (aka DonKi).

DonKi craziness

This place is… craziness embodied. It’s pretty much a Walmart on crack, in about 1/4 of the space.

Our DonKi haul

And we went a wee bit crazy. But can you blame us? Their snack section is insane!

Mustard-flavored potato chips

These mustard-flavored potato chips are weird, but oddly addictive.

Mango passion tea frappucchino with mango pudding

It was a ridiculously hot day in Japan, so after all that walking about, we headed to the Starbucks across from our hotel and bought something you can’t find in the US – a mango passion tea frappucchino, with mango pudding cubes mixed in.

At 630 yen (about $8) it’s definitely not something I’d buy again, but it was worth trying once, and actually pretty good!

People taking pictures of... Son?

After a short nap, we met Rachael and her family downstairs, then headed off to Bassanova so they could try it too (because seriously, I will never turn down an opportunity to eat at Bassanova!)

(Oh, and remember that picture we had of a bunch of people taking pictures of some huge poster in the train station? Well, the photo above is from the perspective of the poster – Son actually ran out in front of it, stopped to take a quick picture of all the people taking pictures, then darted away!)

On the way to Bassanova

Once again, I got the green curry soba.

Allison's green curry ramen

This time, Son tried the cold ramen that they only offer during the summer. It tasted like it has a definite Vietnamese influence.

Son's cold ramen

But the ramen, for once, was not the coolest thing about visiting Bassanova.

Kate, Allison, and Rachael outside Bassanova

No, the coolest thing about that evening was that we got to meet Kate!!!

Kate is one of our awesome Miso Hungry Podcast fans who lives in Japan. She’s been super-sweet to us, so we thought it would be cool to get to meet her while we were there. (She says she’s our #1 fan! ^_^)

With the kids

Kate is now one of our very favorite people. Seriously, she rocks so much.

Walking through Tokyo

But… unfortunately, thanks to a gluten-intolerance, Kate couldn’t partake in the ramen with us. (I know, we felt so bad!) So after ramen, we walked to a combini to find some things she could eat.

Meat bun

(And, uh, remember how I’ve mentioned my boyfriend has a bottomless pit for a stomach? Yeah, that’s why we ended up with more food, too – a meat bun and some sort of Korean onigiri.)

Korean onigiri

We headed off to a park, where we sat and ate for a bit (and then got eaten by the bugs).

The park in the dark

Kate was sweet enough to run around with the girls (she is SO good with kids. Seriously, I cannot rave enough about this woman.), and Son wandered off to take some pictures.

These pictures of the park? They were taken in near complete darkness. Seriously. Son has a freaking ridiculous camera.

The park in the dark

Sadly, we had to say goodbye to Kate soon after, since she had to catch the bus back home. But stay tuned, because this wasn’t the last we got to see of her! ^_^

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On our fourth day in Japan, Rachael’s husband rented a car (both he and Rachael are licensed to drive in Japan) and we went on a road trip!

Driving to Mt. Fuji

This was especially cool, because this meant Son and I got to see a side of Japan we would have never gotten to see if we were there by ourselves, taking the trains everywhere.

On the road

One such example is the Japanese rest stops.

Outside of the rest stop

We stopped at a rest stop on the way. Holy cow, Japanese rest stops there are extravagant!

Allison and the Fuji's outside of the rest stop

It had lots of restaurants, shopping areas, and tons of parking. It was practically a mini-mall.

Bird's nest at rest stop

Then it was back on the road.

Back on the road again

So where were we going, you ask?

Approaching a tunnel

Through the countryside, under mountains, to a very well-known Japanese mountain…

Driving through tunnels

Mt. Fuji!

Chocolates at the Mt. Fuji gift shop

Or rather, Mt. Fuji gift shops!

Mt. Fuji gift shop

Mt. Fuji wasn’t open for climbing yet, and for good reason – while it was hot and humid down in Tokyo, it was freezing, rainy, and incredibly windy up the mountain.

The Fujis on Mt. Fuji

So it was a game of dart outside for a photo…

The Fujis on Mt. Fuji

…then back into the gift shop where it was relatively warm.

Mt. Fuji gift shop

Then wait for a break in the rain and wind to venture out to the viewing deck where you might ordinarily find a beautiful view up the mountain to one side, and down the mountain to the other.

Path up to the viewing deck at Mt. Fuji

Fuji family walking up to the viewing deck

Part of a temple

Viewing deck at Mt. Fuji

(Though we mostly just got clouds.)

View from the viewing deck

Temple at Mt. Fuji

Then a sprint back to the car with Squirrel gripping onto my hand and running alongside me, because oh my goodness, it was so cold and windy and rainy!

Walking back towards the gift shops

By then we were all starving, so after the winding drive down the mountain, we drove around in search of a place to eat.

Allison's udon

We found a little udon place in a strip mall. It was one of those places where everyone stared when we walked in, and they had no English menu. A very good sign!

Thankfully both Rachael and her husband are fluent in Japanese, so it didn’t take too much trouble for us to order.

Son's udon with horsemeat

I got a half-bowl of udon with aburaage, wakame, and egg. It was fantastic (though to be honest, we were all starving by then), but the best part by far was the noodles. They were very obviously made in-house and hand-cut, and they were delicious! After all that wind and rain, this really hit the spot.

Allison's udon

Son got a slightly more exotic bowl of udon. Any guesses as to what kind of meat was in his!

Horsemeat udon


It was the only meat they had available (the woman taking our order was very apologetic to us gaijin for that). It was interesting – like a lean, very flavorful beef.

Inside the udon shop

And for only 950 yen for both bowls (about $12) it was a steal – we all left stuffed to the gills.

Squirrel at the udon shop

Parking lot

Mr. Fuji inside the udon shop

Other shops in the strip mall

Classic Japanese drink vending machine

Fujilings in the car

We started to head back… and then somebody decided they needed a potty stop as we were about to get on the freeway.

Luckily, Son realized that we could turn into the Mt. Fuji Visitor Center and use the restroom there, which meant that we got to check out the Visitor’s Center really quick before we left the area.

Mt. Fuji Visitor's Center

Visitor's center

Visitor's center

Outside the visitor's center

Visitor's center

Map outside

Driving back

And then we were off!

Oh hi, traffic

But we weren’t heading back to Tokyo just yet.

Hey, is that a Coco's?

(Random question: is it weird that every time I see a restaurant that I consider to be “American” – like this Coco’s, or a Denny’s, or, as you’ll see in a minute, Red Lobster – I kind of really want to go try it out, just to see how it’s different?)

Small-town Japan

Driving on the left side of the road

No, we had a very important detour to make.

Hey, nice car!

Red Lobster

We went to Costco!


Seriously. We went out of our way (since we were paying to rent the car all day anyways) to visit a Costco.

Entering Costco

It was probably the freakiest experience of the entire trip.

Japanese Costco looks just like American Costco!

A Japanese Costco seriously looks just like every single Costco you ever see in the US. Same layout, nearly the same signs…

This is seriously weird.

The only difference is that their seafood selection strikes envy into my heart. Seriously, why can’t we have ridiculously fresh uni and tuna and ikura and 20 different kinds of seaweed at our American Costcos? (Yes, I’m whining. You would too, in my position.)


So seeing Costco was cool, yes. (Did you know that you can use your Costco Membership Card anywhere in the world? Kind of wish we had brought ours!)

But just seeing a Japanese Costco was not the real reason why we came here.

Allison with the Hokkaido milk soft cream in the Costco food court

Nope, we were here for the Hokkaido Milk Soft Cream. (200 yen)

After all the times Rachael has mentioned it while we record our Miso Hungry Podcast, of course I had to try it.

It was ridiculous. So good. I want more. I can see why she raves about it!

Hokkaido Milk soft cream

Rachael’s girls needed several more potty stops after we left Costco, so we ended up stopping at a 7-11 and picking up a few things to eat later.

Fried rice onigiri

Son got a fried rice onigiri, and picked out a couple more things for me that I ate later that night.

Motorcycle shop

Then it was back to Tokyo, for real this time.

Checking out a Honda

Honda butt

Hello again, Tokyo

The Tokyo Tower looked mystical all lit up in the fog.

Tokyo tower at night

Empty Tokyo streets

Traffic and a train

Shiodome offramp

Once we got back, we left Rachael and her family at their hotel (and returned all the now-broken umbrellas they had borrowed from the hotel that morning – the poor umbrellas didn’t stand a chance against the crazy Mt. Fuji winds!) then headed back to our hotel to rest for a bit.

Son with all the Fujis' broken umbrellas

Inari from 7-11

We got into another of the 7-11 purchases – an inari with some sort of mixed rice inside.

Inside of inari

Then we headed out to wander Shimbashi station, looking for something to eat. We had passed this place called Soup Stock several times already, and it always smelled good, so Son decided he wanted that for dinner (I wasn’t very hungry by then).

We got a meal that included butter chicken curry, Tokyo borsch, rice, and orange juice. I wasn’t too much of a fan, but Son enjoyed it.

Soup Stock

And for dessert, a custard-like tart from a nearby bakery.


Ikura onigiri

Son got his soup and a yummy custard tart, and I ended up in bed with an onigiri.


Allison in bed with an onigiri

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A big part of why we went to Japan this summer was to be there the same time Rachael was there. Since she’s lived there before, speaks and reads Japanese fluently, and – oh, yeah – we have a podcast about Japanese food that we do together, we decided that we should definitely, absolutely take a trip to Japan together.

She goes to Japan every summer because her husband’s company sends him to Tokyo every year, so Son and I planned our trip to coincide with theirs. Since they found out not long before we left that they’d be able to take their two girls along this year, their flight scheduling meant they arrived a couple of days after we did.

So what did we do the first day we were all in Japan together? Well we visited the brand new Tokyo Skytree, of course!

Before meeting them that morning, I popped by the Starbucks in their building, in desperate need of some coffee. (Apparently I don’t do so well with jetlag. Heh.)

Allison with a Starbucks soy milk card

I got a soy latte (hi, I’m lactose intolerant), and discovered that unlike the Starbucks here in the US, the ones in Japan are super careful about making sure you don’t actually get regular milk instead. (That card I’m holding says that my drink should be made with soymilk – you hand it back to the barista when they give you your drink.)

At 430 yen (about $5.50) for a grandé, it’s definitely more expensive in Japan. But holy cow, their soymilk is lightyears better than the soymilk you get in the US! Almost worth the ridiculous price.

Once we found the Fujis, we all stopped by our newfound favorite onigiri place to pick up some onigiri (we got a salmon with mayo onigiri, and a laver paste – aka seaweed paste – onigiri) to take with us, then it was off to the Skytree!

Tokyo Skytree

The Skytree is very, very…

Tokyo Skytree

… very tall.

Tokyo Skytree

We were all hungry by the time we got there, so we found a curb to sit on while we snacked on the onigiri we bought.

Sitting on a curb near the Skytree

Sitting on a curb near the Skytree, eating onigiri

While we were sitting there, an older man who was walking past stopped to talk to Rachael and the girls. (Apparently this is common – people in Japan love to stop and fawn over children, especially Rachael’s blue-eyed, blonde-haired, very obviously not Japanese girls.)

He insisted upon giving the girls a couple of boxes of cookies he had just bought to the girls, and talking to Rachael and Mr. Fuji for a while.

Then he turned his attention to Son and myself… and started speaking Japanese to Son, thoroughly convinced that Son could understand him, even when Rachael informed him that Son is Vietnamese, not Japanese. (And he was very amused by the fact that I’m Japanese but can’t speak the language, while Rachael is not Japanese but is fluent in it!)

He was quite a character.

The girls playing with a dog

Then a man on a bike passed by with his dog, and they stopped to let the girls play with the dog.

The dog sniffing at Squirrel

Both Rachael and I got dragged over there by her girls, so we could play with the dog too!

Rachael saying hi to the dog

Because really, who can resist an adorable dancing dog like this one?

Dog doing tricks

Once the man and his dog went on their merry way, we all took a stroll around the Skytree Town (the area beneath and around the Tokyo Skytree where there were a bunch of shops.)

Tokyo Skytree

Have I mentioned yet that people in Japan really seem to like lining up for things? Such was the case with this statue – apparently if you stand in the middle of it, you can look up and it’ll line up with the Skytree. There was a ginormous line of people waiting to take pictures of the Skytree through the statue.

People taking pictures of the Skytree through a statue

We found this place called the Tokyo Curry Lab.

Tokyo Curry Lab

Both Rachael and I have a difficult time resisting curry-filled pastries, so of course we had to check it out.

Tokyo Curry Lab

Tokyo Curry Lab

They sell these curry pies – 300 yen each. Rachael and I each got one.

Curry pastries

Delicious! Though I’d still have to say curry buns are my favorite.

Curry pie

Food court outside

Bug goofing off

Pretty soon Rachael and her family had to be on their way (they had something else scheduled for the rest of the day), so we all said our goodbyes, for now.


After they left, Son and I wandered the area a bit more.

Shopping area inside

Let the pigging-out commence!

Onigiri shop

I’ve spoken of our newfound obsession with onigiri, which has resulted in us having a very difficult time resisting any onigiri specialty shops we come across.

Onigiri display

Especially when there are so many different, interesting types to choose from!

Onigiri display

Since we… er… still can’t read Japanese, we just picked two that looked interesting.

Allison buying onigiri

I just adore how the Japanese wrap things up for you, although it does result in a whole lot of packaging that just ends up being thrown away.

Onigiri packaging

So we ended up with an onigiri that was wrapped in something akin to mustard leaves (though I’m not entirely sure that’s what it was).

Onigiri wrapped in mustard greens

It use a mixed rice, but didn’t have any sort of fillings.

Inside of onigiri wrapped in mustard greens

The other one had tempura shrimp and lettuce in it. Delicious! Both for only 400 yen.

Tempura shrimp onigiri

After we ate the onigiri, we headed back in, to a mochi shop we had passed.

Mochi shop

Display at mochi shop

Display at mochi shop

Mochi shop

We decided to get two of the mochi skewers (dango?) that they were selling.

Mochi packaging

The first was warabimochi, an almost jelly-like confection covered in kinako (soybean flour).

Kinako mochi

It came with a packet of mitsu (a dark, sweet syrup) to drizzle over it. After eating this, Son has gained a newfound obsession with warabimochi (he really wants me to figure out how to make it, and we got it at least two more times while we were in Japan.)

Kinako mochi with kuromitsu

The second kind that we got was a sort of yaki dango (grilled mochi) with a sweet shoyu sauce. Both were delicious, and came out to a total of 310 yen.


After pig-out part one, we walked around a bit, going upstairs where there was a Ghibli store. Son bought “The Art of Spirited Away”, because he’s been interested in doing a bit of drawing lately.

The Art of Spirited Away

After that, we wandered around the upper level of Skytree Town, over to where the base of the Skytree is.

Black and white Tokyo Skytree

We considered going to the Sumida Aquarium, which is right next to the Skytree, but decided there were better ways to spend our time there.

Sumida Aquarium entrance

Such a strawberry milk soft cream, for example.

Son with our strawberry milk soft cream

There was a nice breeze, so we sat out on the plaza at the base of the Skytree to eat our soft cream (Japanese soft cream is like a mix between ice cream and soft serve).

View of plaza from second level

Tokyo Skytree

Then it was back downstairs, where we just had to check out KFC.


We’d heard that it’s better than KFC in the US, so of course we had to sacrifice some precious stomach space in the name of research.

Allison with the Colonel

Very important research.

Inside KFC

We did this for you, dear readers.

Ordering at KFC

Apparently, in Japan, it is extremely common for families to eat KFC for their Christmas dinners.

Chicken strip

And, well, after eating Japan’s KFC, I can see why.

Putting honey lemon sauce on chicken strip

Those “11 herbs and spices and finger-lickin’ flavor” they go on about here in the US is a load of bull. To heck with that. I want what KFC makes in Japan!

Chicken strip and drumstick from KFC

We got a drumstick, and a spicy chicken strip with honey lemon sauce.

Allison with the KFC chicken

Both were much more flavorful than anything we get here in the US. And that honey lemon sauce! Seriously. Why can’t we have this deliciousness here?

(Though at a total of 480 yen – about $6 – it wasn’t exactly cheap.)

KFC chicken strip

You’d think after all we’d eaten so far, we’d be done, right?

Crepe shop

Er… nope.

Wall of crepes

Like I said, pigging out.


Next we got a crepe with banana slices, cheesecake pieces, chocolate sauce, and whipped cream.

Allison with the crepe

Because, well… why not?

(At 550 yen it made the chicken look inexpensive, but it was totally worth it.)

Crepe with banana, cheesecake, chocolate sauce, and whipped cream

Okay, now we’re done eating.

Sort of.

For now.

Akihabara at night

After a nap back at the hotel, we headed out to Akihabara because Son wanted to look for something.

Akihabara stresses me out. All that noise and light and chaos…

Mister donut

So obviously, I needed doughnuts to soothe my nerves.

Mister donut

(Kidding. We would have ended up at Mister Donut even if I were completely zen… that was half the reason for going to Akihabara!)

Pon donut and whipped cream-filled donut

We got a glazed pon de ring donut (the one that looks like a string of fat beads) and a whipped cream-filled donut.

Mister donut outside

For 252 yen (about $3.25) it was totally worth it.


After a bit more walking around, Son decided he was hungry (if you think you’re noticing a trend here, you’re totally right). When he saw this tempura place, he insisted we try it.

Allison at the tempura place

This was pretty much the best tempura we’ve ever had. You know how I know that? Because even now, nearly four months later, Son still cannot stop talking about it.

Tempura bowl

“This is pretty good, but not as good as that tempura place in Japan.” “Man, we should have gone back to that tempura place while we were in Japan.” “Why isn’t there any tempura place here that’s as good as the one in Japan?”

(There is never any doubt that when he refers to “that tempura place in Japan,” he’s referring to this one.)

Outside of the tempura place

And then, because Son was still hungry (and had developed a fondness for the bento boxes from Ueno station the previous night), we headed to Ueno station.

For a bento box, of course.

Bento box

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Our second day in Japan began with onigiri. Delicious, delicious onigiri.

Onigiri display at Mai Mai

We found an onigiri specialty shop in Shimbashi station (when facing the entrance to the JR lines, it’s in the far left corner) called Mai Mai.

(We went there so often, the woman who works there started bringing out the English menu whenever she saw us coming!)

Mai Mai

(And what is it with Japanese women taking pictures of posters? Every single time we passed this huge poster in the train station, there was always a group of girls/women standing in front of it, taking photos – no matter what time of day or night. I’m not exaggerating – there literally was not a single time we went by where there wasn’t at least one female (usually quite a few more) taking a picture of it.)

Every time we passed this, there were girls taking pictures of it.

So back to the onigiri. One thing we really loved about the onigiri at Mai Mai was that they used a mixed-grain rice for it.


It was delicious.


The first time we went, we got an onigiri filled with mayo mixed with salmon, and an onigiri filled with miso paste. (The onigiri there are 220 yen each – about $2.75.)

Onigiri with mayonnaise salmon

I couldn’t tell you which I liked more, because they were both fantastic. Although now that I think about it, I’m still dreaming about that miso onigiri…

Onigiri with miso

There was a bakery in the train station that we passed by every day, called Kobeya Bakery.

Kobeya Bakery

Apparently they’re known for their mango hand pies, so of course we had to stop in and see how they were.

Display at the bakery

And while we were there, we could’t resist drooling over all the rest of their baked goods as well.

Display at the bakery

Display at the bakery

Once we made our purchases, we walked back to a nearby outdoor plaza that had plenty of seating.

Mango hand pie

It’s no wonder the mango hand pies are their specialty – they were fantastic! Not too sweet, and full of perfectly ripe mango.

Schoolchildren and a businessman sharing a bench

All sorts of people can be seen sharing a bench there – like a businessman trying to catch a quick nap, next to some schoolgirls enjoying a snack.

Upward view in the plaza

But the thing I was really excited about was the tonkatsu sandwich we also purchased from the bakery.

Tonkatsu sandwiches

Ever since Rachael and I recorded our Miso Hungry Podcast episode about tonkatsu, I’ve been wanting to try a katsu sando (tonkatsu sandwich).

Tonkatsu sandwiches

Hooooly cow. (Perhaps “holy pig” would be more appropriate in this case.)

I’m kind of obsessed.

Tonkatsu sandwiches

The katsu sando was made with perfectly fried tonkatsu and a tangy sauce between two soft pieces of white bread. So simple, yet so ridiculously freaking good.

(806 yen for the mango hand pie and katsu sando – about $10.40.)

So yummy!

Shimbashi Station

Back through the station…

Shimbashi Station

… and then we were off to our actual destination.

Takoyaki stand across the street from the Tokyo Dome

(Not this takoyaki stand, though there is takoyaki in our future!)

Architecture near the Tokyo Dome

No, we were headed to the Tokyo Dome that day. Though not normally much of a baseball fan, Son wanted to find a gift shop because there was some Japanese baseball team jersey he wanted to see if he could buy.

Grilled cod roe with mayo onigiri

But before wandering the Tokyo Dome, we found we were hungry again (something you’ll find to be a common theme of this trip) so we sat down to eat another onigiri that we had gone back to Mai Mai’s to get after we enjoyed the first two so much.

This time, the filling was grilled cod roe mixed with mayonnaise. Delicious.

Grilled cod roe with mayo onigiri

And then we got slightly (understatement of the century) sidetracked by a manga store that was right next to the food court we had sat down in.

Anime store

So… we’re kind of closet One Piece fans.

Allison holding the One Piece book we got

In the first few years we were going out, we spent a ton of time watching episodes of it together.


It’s unfortunately been a while since we’ve had time to watch, but I’ve been wanting to for a while.

Inside the anime store

Which meant it was pretty much impossibly not to buy the manga I was holding a few photos up… and a One Piece shaped ice tray. Heh.

Allison buying the book and ice tray

I’m going to be the Pirate King!

Allison standing with a Luffy statue

Aaaaanyways… after that minor distraction, we were off wandering again, trying to find the baseball gift shop Son had found online.

Tokyo Dome City

We wandered around Tokyo Dome City, finding some very interesting menus.

Allison looking at the Baseball Cafe menu

And some very interesting bugs. (I nearly sat on that!)

Weird bug

Finally we found the gift shop, attached to the Tokyo Dome (a baseball stadium).

Tokyo Dome

Unfortunately we didn’t find the jersey Son wanted, but it was definitely interesting to wander around.

Baseball souviner shop at Tokyo Dome

Tokyo Dome

Then we went to find more food. Of course.

Takoyaki shop

Like I said earlier, takoyaki was to be had today!


Mmmm, takoyaki.


Such a guilty pleasure. Just look at those huge pieces of octopus! (450 yen for 6 pieces – about $5.75)

Huge piece of octopus in the takoyaki

Son opted to get a salmon ochazuke. (750 yen – about $9.50)

Ochazuke shop

Ochazuke is a dish where you pour a hot liquid (I’ve mostly seen it with green tea, but this one had dashi) over a rice bowl.

Son's ochazuke

This is the first time I’ve seen it made with all these toppings, but it was fantastic!

Son's salmon ochazuke

Then it was back to the train station.

Train station

We love the train system in Japan.

Train station

Especially when there are little dessert shops right near the train tracks!

Dessert shop

This one was in Akihabara station, which I believe was the station nearest the Tokyo Dome.

Allison buying flan tart

Clock reads 15:22


A quarter of a flan-like tart cost us about $4.70.

View from the elevator in our hotel

After that it was back to the hotel for a nap, then we wandered around the area for a bit.

Interesting clock near our station

There’s some really interesting architecture near the Shimbashi station.

Our hotel

By then it was late enough that we just wanted to find something to eat and get back to sleep. (Yep, still a bit jet-lagged.)

Ueno station

Son decided he wanted to go check out Ueno station and see what they had there.

Japanese train stations almost always have an excellent selection of pretty gosh darned good food, whether it be in restaurants or take-out.


Ecute is a little food mall in Ueno station that has a bunch of little stores selling a huge variety of both sweet and savory foods.

Shops inside Ecute

We looked around for a bit – there were so many options, it was hard to choose!


But we finally decided on a bento box (1000 yen – about $13).

Buying a bento

More shops


After all the ramen and greasy foods (takoyaki and katsu sando aren’t exactly light foods!) of the past few days, I wanted something lighter, so I got a small salad as well.

Buying a salad

Back at the hotel we got into the food… I just love the bento boxes in Japan! So many interesting foods, you can’t possibly get bored with all that variety (and Son is obsessed with all the different kinds of rice).

The fish was fantastic, all the different tsukemono and types of rice were delicious, and I especially loved the little meatball – tsukune – in the lower right corner.

The bento we bought

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View from our hotel room

Day 1. Our first full day in Japan. We woke up to find we had quite a lovely view of Hamarikyu Gardens from our hotel room.

Since we weren’t able to get our JR Passes the previous evening when we arrived in Japan, off we went to Shinagawa station, where there was a JR Exchange Office.

And back we went to our hotel room, because someone (we won’t name names, but it starts with “S” and ends with “on”) neglected to bring their passport, and we couldn’t exchange our JR passes without it. (They wouldn’t even take a photocopy! Boo.)

But we weren’t totally empty-handed – since the first time we were in Japan we stayed across the street from Shinagawa station, we became quite well acquainted with the curry pan from a bakery in the station. Obviously, we couldn’t walk by and not get one.

Curry pan

Do you have any idea how impossible it is to resist buying a cream puff when you can smell them, freshly baked, the scent wafting through the train station? It’s like going by Krispy Kreme when that “Freshly Baked” sign is blinking, or In N’ Out when you can smell french fries cooking from across the street. Or smelling bacon, anytime, ever. Instant cravings.

Beard Papa's Display

Yeah, so there’s a Beard Papa’s shop in Shimbashi station, right near the entrance to the JR station. And Son has a coworker who’s OBSESSED with Beard Papa’s (hi, Victor!), so of course we had to stop by and see how the ones in Japan compared to the ones in the US.

All in the name of research and being a good friend. Yup. That’s our excuse, and we’re sticking with it.

Beard Papa's Ice Cream Puffs

No comparison. None. At all. Even just the plain custard-filled cream puff blew our minds. (Which unfortunately is, I’m pretty sure, the only one we had there that you can actually get in the US. Come on, US Beard Papa’s! What’s your deal?!) Best. Cream puffs. Ever.

Beard Papa's classic cream puff

So, after a quick jaunt up to our hotel room to retrieve aforementioned someone’s passport, off we went to Tokyo Station to exchange our JR Passes. (Tokyo Station is in the opposite direction of Shinagawa Station, a little bit closer to Shimbashi Station so cost us less, and also has a JR Exchange Office.)


After attaining our JR Passes, we decided to walk around Tokyo a bit. (When I say Tokyo, I mean the area around Tokyo station.) By then our stomachs were starting to grumble (a curry bun and a cream puff, shared between the two of us, does not make for much of a breakfast.)

Tsukemen noodles

Mind you, neither of us read or speak Japanese, and we’re only somewhat familiar with certain parts of Tokyo. So when it comes to finding a good place to eat… we’re pretty much useless. After a bit of wandering, we ended up at a ramen place with a line out the door for lunch – always a good sign.

Tsukemen soup

I got the tsukemen, which is similar to ramen, but the noodles are served on the side and the broth is thicker than normal ramen.


Son had the miso ramen, and we shared an order of gyoza.

Tsukemen noodles

The tsukemen was ridiculously good. The weirdness of squishing into a table across from a couple of businessmen was worth it for that tsukemen.

Eating the tsukemen

Son’s ramen and the gyoza weren’t bad either, but we were both in agreement that my tsukemen was the winner of that meal. (The meal came out to 997 yen – about $12 – such a deal!)

Miso ramen

After lunch, we walked around a bit, then headed back to Shimbashi station.

We couldn’t help but stop by Beard Papa’s again – more research, of course.


We also stopped by the Tully’s inbetween Shimbashi and Shiodome stations (on the way to our hotel).

Allison in Tully's

Hoping for a taste of home, and unable to resist buying boba milk tea (me, an addict? Nah…), we stopped there for a second, and then sat down in the courtyard outside.

Boba milk tea from Tully's

We were so, so sorely disappointed.

Beard Papa's cruller

In the boba, I mean. The cruller-type pastry we bought from Beard Papa’s (filled with the same sort of pastry cream as the regular cream puffs) was fantastic! Quite possibly even better than the original cream puffs.


But that boba… ugh. Such a waste of 150 yen.

Huge crowd near Tully's

After a quick nap – jet lag had us utterly exhausted by that time – we took the train over to Harajuku.


We walked around Harajuku for a bit, then through Yoyogi park – one of our very favorite parks in Tokyo. This time it was too late to see the Rockabilly dancers or visit food stalls, but it was still nice, a moment of calm in the middle of a busy city.

We searched for the Sword Museum on the other side, but it ended up being closed by the time we got there.

Sword Museum sign

So instead, since we were in the area, we took a train to Shindaita station and walked to Bassanova – the ramen shop where Keizo of Go Ramen works.

Boom and Keizo making ramen at Bassanova

We got to meet Boom, another Japanese-American who began working at Bassanova after Keizo mentioned on his blog that they were looking for more employees.

Boom and Keizo making ramen at Bassanova

Son got the Tom Yum Ramen, a spicy Thai-style ramen. It was fantastic. Seriously, we haven’t had anything here that wasn’t amazingly good.

Son's Tom Yum Ramen

But that wasn’t what I was here for.

I came to Bassanova looking to get my Green Curry Ramen Soba fix!

Allison's Green Curry Soba

Ooooh, baby. That’s some freaking fantastic soba.

I’m still working on convincing Keizo to open a branch of Bassanova in LA, so I don’t have to travel all the way to Tokyo to get my fix!

I swear, it’s like a drug.

And 1800 yen (about $23) for 2 bowls of ramen makes it a very affordable drug.

Tom Yum Ramen

After hanging out at Bassanova with Keizo for a bit, we took the train to Shibuya to walk off all that ramen.

Walking around Shibuya

Then back to the hotel to pass out. Day 1 was a ramen-filled success!

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As some of you might know, in January of this year I started a podcast – Miso Hungry Podcast, all about Japanese food! – with Rachael Hutchings of La Fuji Mama. (And if you didn’t know, then you should definitely go listen to one of our 25 (plus 2 mini) episodes! Seriously, go. Now. This post can wait, promise. ^_^)

A couple of months into the podcast, Rachael mentioned that she was planning a trip to Japan with her husband in the summer, as she does every summer. (They lived in Japan for a while a few years back, and his job takes him back to Tokyo for a few weeks every year.)

Half-jokingly, one of us proposed that I should go too, as a “research trip” for the podcast. The more we talked about it, the more it sounded like an awesome idea… and when I mentioned it to Son, he was totally on board.

So what started as a wild, “that would be cool” sort of idea, ended up as a full-fledged trip to Japan. In the middle of June, solidly in typhoon season, six of us (on three different flights) headed off to Japan – Rachael, her husband, and their two daughters, and Son and I.

Reading the Kindle before we left

Son and I booked our flight on Singapore Air. It’s the same airline we flew the first time we went to Japan, and we highly recommend it. Even though we fly economy, they have great service, friendly flight attendants, and food that’s actually pretty good.

Singapore Sling

To say I’m a bit out of touch with what’s trendy/cool/”in” would be an understatement. Especially when it comes to anything having to do with any sort of alcohol.

The super-sweet flight attendant who took care of our part of the plane recommended that we get a Singapore Sling, on one of the instances when she came by with the drink cart. (I think she thought Son and I were on our honeymoon.)

So we got one to share, which she made super-weak (I’m pretty sure it was practically a virgin cocktail) because neither of us ever drink.

Of course I, the dork that I am, was sitting there thinking, “How cool, they have a cocktail named after their airline! And it’s not half bad, either… actually pretty good, for something with alcohol in it.”

(Remember the part where I said I don’t drink… and I’m waaay out of touch? Yeah…)

Singapore Sling description

Dinner was buta kakuni (Japanese braised pork) with rice, which came with tamago and shrimp on the side, a rice cracker, a roll w/ butter, soba with dipping sauce, and chocolate brownie ice cream. For airplane food, it was damn good.

(Asian airlines always have the best food! I’m told food on the American airlines can’t even compare. Word to the wise – although both options offered by Singapore Air at each meal are pretty decent, the one with Asian food is almost always better.)

Airplane dinner

After a few hours of “sleeping” – aka Son watching various movies and me reading an entire Robert Jordan book on my Kindle, we got another light meal – this time chicken curry with rice, which came with a roll with butter, seafood salad, and a mocha cake. Again, delicious (although the cake kind of sucked.)

Airplane curry

We landed at Narita Airport around 7pm Japan time… which unfortunately was juuust too late to exchange our JR Exchange Order for a JR Pass.

(PRO TIP: if you are going to be staying in one city, without traveling elsewhere much, then the JR Pass may not be worth it for you, since local trains usually aren’t too expensive. However, if you’re planning on using the Shinkansen a lot – we used it to go to Kyoto and Osaka – then it might be worth buying one before your trip to Japan.)

Son on the train

So, since we were too late to get our JR Passes, we ended up spending 2800 yen (about $35) for tickets on the Rapid train to get from the airport (which is about 1 hour away from Tokyo) to Shimbashi station (which is the closest big station to the hotel where we were staying.)

Allison on the train

By the time we got to our hotel, we were 100% completely and totally exhausted. Also, kind of lost. (Park Hotel Tokyo, which is where we were staying, is kind of hard to find from the subway station level, and the lobby is on the 20-somthingth floor.)

And by that time, everything was closed. Luckily for us, there was a Family Mart convenience store (aka “combini”) on the subway level of the hotel building, which our bellboy was kind enough to point us to.

Thank goodness for Family Mart. Open 24-hours, always brightly lit, and always with plenty of food… it became our favorite place over the next two weeks. Every morning we would buy a bottle of water there, every night a tuna with mayo onigiri for the next morning’s breakfast… and any time we found ourselves still hungry when most restaurants were already closed (or we were too exhausted to go out), Family Mart was there with plenty of good food.

Seriously. I’m not kidding about it being really freaking good food (um, hello American convenience stores, get your act together please!)

For our first meal back in Japan, we ended up with inari sushi and futomaki, fruit jelly, and a cherry soda. (Sushi was good, Son ate the fruit jelly, and I’m generally not a fan of cherry-flavored things so I didn’t really like the soda, but Son says it was good.) All for about 800 yen (about $10). Only in Japan will I ever advocate getting convenience store sushi! ^_^

Family mart dinner

Okay, so our “first” day in Japan wasn’t so exciting… hence it being labeled “Day 0”. But the next day included ramen, cream puffs, and more ramen… so stay tuned for the next post!

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